Once you've read the crack and know it's more than cosmetic (see why is my concrete cracking), the next question is which fix actually fits. There isn't one right answer. There's a ladder of options depending on whether the slab itself is sound, and on Rosenberg's clay the answer to "what should I do" usually turns on whether the fix addresses the cause underneath, not just what's on the surface.
The repair-vs-replace ladder
The job classes run from least to most disruptive, and the right one depends on the slab's condition, not on price alone:
- Seal or patch when the slab is sound and the cracks are cosmetic.
- Lift (slabjacking or polyjacking) when a sound slab has settled over a void.
- Resurface or overlay when the wear surface is tired but the slab underneath is structurally fine.
- Tear out and replace when the slab is heaved, faulted, spalled through, or cracked structurally.
The rule that governs all four: fix the subgrade and drainage cause first, or the new work re-cracks. On Lake Charles clay, that rule decides whether a repair lasts or you pay for the same work twice, because the clay under the slab keeps moving whether or not you've patched the surface.
Sealing and crack repair
Narrow cracks (under about 1/8 in) are typically filled with a standard cementitious crack filler, worked in and slightly overfilled. Cracks that are non-structural but need to keep moving, expanding and contracting with temperature or moisture, call for a flexible polyurethane or silicone sealant instead, which fills and waterproofs while allowing that movement.
The catch: sealing only holds once the underlying movement has actually stopped. Seal a crack while the slab underneath is still shifting with the seasonal clay cycle, and it reopens. That's why a crack that tracks the seasons (wider in a dry spell, tighter after rain) is a poor candidate for sealing alone until the moisture driving it is addressed.
Lifting a settled slab: slabjacking vs. polyjacking
When a sound slab has settled over a void rather than cracked structurally, lifting is often the right call instead of a full tear-out. Two methods do this:
- Slabjacking (mudjacking). Holes are drilled through the settled slab and a cement-based slurry is pumped underneath to fill the void and lift the panel. The slurry is heavy, which adds load onto the same soil that settled in the first place. Cures in roughly 24–72 hours. Longevity is commonly cited around 2–5 years in wet or erosive conditions, where the slurry can wash out. That figure is a firm/industry claim, not an independent measurement, so treat it as a typical claim rather than a guarantee.
- Polyurethane foam raising (polyjacking). The same idea, but expanding high-density polyurethane foam is injected through smaller holes. The foam is much lighter, sets in minutes, and resists moisture and washout, which is why firms commonly claim 20+ years of longevity on stable soil versus mudjacking's 2–5. Again, that's a manufacturer/firm claim, not an independent figure.
Neither method drives to deep load-bearing strata, and neither is a fix for a slab that's cracked through or structurally failed. Both lift a settled but otherwise sound panel. On expansive clay, "stable soil" is doing a lot of work in that pitch: if the settlement was caused by the clay's moisture cycle rather than a one-time void, lifting the slab without addressing drainage just buys time before it settles again.
Resurfacing and overlays
When the slab itself is structurally sound but the surface is worn, cracked cosmetically, or dated, a resurface bonds a new cementitious or polymer-modified topping over the existing concrete to renew the wearing or decorative surface without removing the slab. This is a cosmetic-to-moderate fix only: it will mirror any real movement or unsealed crack in the slab beneath it, so it's not the answer for a slab that's actively heaving or faulted.
The surface has to be prepared to the right roughness for the new layer to bond, which is a real standard, not a contractor preference: a thin skim coat wants roughly CSP 2–4 and a thicker polymer/self-leveling overlay wants roughly CSP 4–6 on the concrete surface profile scale. Ask what surface prep a bid includes; a resurface poured over an unprepared, still-moving slab telegraphs the old cracks right back through.
Tear-out and replace
Demolition and a new pour is the only method that makes a crack truly disappear, and it's the required move once a slab is structurally failed, badly heaved, or spalled through. It's also the point where getting the subgrade right the first time matters most: correcting base prep and drainage before the new pour is what keeps the new slab from cracking the same way, on the same clay, on the same schedule. See concrete driveways and concrete patios for what a properly built replacement slab looks like.
What it costs
- Driveway repair (average): about $1,812, with a typical range of $830–$2,838.
- Slabjacking / polyurethane foam raising (lift a settled section): roughly $1,600–$5,000.
- Crack injection (epoxy/poly, no excavation): the lowest-cost repair method.
- Tear-out and replace: budget the plain-install range plus demolition and haul-off. See what concrete costs in Rosenberg for install ranges by finish.
These are typical ranges from national cost aggregators and Texas market pricing, not a quote. The real number depends on how much of the slab is affected, access, and what the subgrade needs.
What to ask before you repair
Fixing the surface without fixing the cause is the single most common way a Rosenberg concrete repair fails to hold. Before choosing a method, it's worth confirming a contractor has diagnosed WHY the slab moved (the clay's moisture cycle, a drainage problem, a settling void) rather than just quoting a fix for what's visible on top. The vetting a repair crew page has the specific questions to ask.
Questions people ask
Can I just seal a crack myself? For a hairline, cosmetic crack that isn't growing, a DIY cementitious filler or flexible sealant is reasonable. For anything paired with a faulted joint, displacement, or a crack that keeps widening, sealing alone won't hold if the ground underneath is still moving. That calls for diagnosing the cause first.
Is slabjacking cheaper than tear-out? Usually yes upfront, since it's a lift rather than a demolition and repour. But it only works on a slab that's settled while remaining structurally sound; it does nothing for a cracked-through or heaved slab, and if the settlement was driven by the clay's ongoing moisture cycle rather than a one-time void, the fix doesn't necessarily last.
Will resurfacing hide a crack for good? Only if the crack is cosmetic and the slab underneath has stopped moving. A resurface over an active crack or a slab still shifting with the seasons will show that movement again on the new surface.
Area covered
Rosenberg 77471, plus Richmond, Beasley, Pleak, and the Fort Bend County area.